Jamestown Canoe Journey Blog
Observations from Sherry Macgregor, 2009 Jamestown Puller
I am a
Jamestown S'Klallam citizen of the Macgregor family. I trace my
lineage through my mother, Betty Macgregor Bowen, my grandmother,
Florence Reyes Macgregor and my greatgrandmother, Annie Jacobs
Lambert Reyes. I lived among my S'Klallam great aunts and uncles and
cousins in the Sequim and Blyn area until the age of 16 when my
family moved to California. About twelve years ago my brother Joe
Bowen (now deceased) built a home on Blue Mountain. I returned to
the Olympic Peninsula many times after that for family reunions and
general good times. This time I am here for the entire summer to
participate in the canoe journey.
Episode 5 - August 4, 2009
The Canoe
Journey is completed.
On the 31st
of July, the Jamestown S’Klallams welcomed over 30 canoes to
Jamestown. Formal requests to land in our territory were made by
each tribe and permission was granted by us. My cousin who witnessed
one of the landings was very impressed with this courteous
formality. He commented how nice it would be if everyone did this.
It was a busy day as there was also a naming ceremony on the
Jamestown beach for the new canoe, the E’ow-itsa or Little
Sister. Those of us in the Laxaynәm took the canoe out to the
tip of the Dungeness Spit so that we could direct the other tribes’
canoes to Jamestown. We were out there quite a while and some of us
had the opportunity to take a tour of the old Dungeness Lighthouse,
something I had never done before.
On the 1st of August at 5:30 a.m. we carried our two
canoes out to the water and we then began our canoe journey. It was
so foggy we had to follow our support boat which had a GPS system.
We could hear singing from other canoes but we could not see them,
nor could we see any land. We could tell when we were near
Protection Island because of the preponderance of puffins and seals
but we could not see the island either. One of the most dangerous
points in our journey was at Point Wilson right before our
destination, Port Townsend. Here the waters of the Strait of Juan de
Fuca and Puget Sound meet and it is known for rip tides and
under-tows. In the old days the Indians would portage around it when
going to Port Townsend. We, however, “pulled” our way through the
choppy waters and we landed in Port Townsend six hours after
starting out from Jamestown. Upon rounding the point everything was
finally wreathed in sunshine. Port Townsend is a city in S’Klallam
territory and so the three S’Klallam tribes: Lower Elwha, Jamestown
and Port Gamble were the hosts for this landing. Since it was in our
territory we did not have to ask permission to land but we did
announce ourselves. As many canoes came in after we did we could
greet them singing the S’Klallam Welcome song – in S’Klallam of
course.
On the 2nd
of August we travelled from Port Townsend to Port Gamble. It was a
lovely day filled with sunshine. This time we could clearly see
whatever we passed, such as Indian Island, a nuclear submarine and
the Hood Canal Bridge. It took seven hours to reach our destination
and once there we were granted permission to land.
On the 3rd
of August we began the final day of our canoe journey. We had
another 5:30 a.m. start with the weather being cooler. Again we hit
very choppy water around Point No Point which is on the west side of
the Sound. This was a particularly poignant sight for us as we are
still bound today by the Point No Point Treaty of 1855. This was the
moment when our lands and rights were taken from us and they tried
to force us onto a reservation far from our ancestral homes. I
realize it is an old story. It took at least 125 years (1981) before
we were recognized as a tribe and could start forcing the U.S.
Government to live up to the treaty provisions. My relatives always
said, “meaningless words, broken promises.”
Finally we
neared Suquamish. We had what was called a “soft landing” at Doe-Kag-wats
Beach (Jefferson Head) before we crossed over to the final landing
site. It had to be orchestrated, as 88 canoes converged here having
come from many different directions. There was also the issue of
their beach disappearing at high tide. But what an incredible sight
to see all these canoes rafted together on the beach, each in turn
requesting permission to land and come ashore. Many of the speakers
in the canoe were quite eloquent. It was also a memorable sight to
see the canoes being hoisted onto the shoulders of young men from
the Navy base as they were carried up a very steep boat ramp to a
grassy area. Extra people were needed to move the Laxaynәm as
it is one of the heaviest canoes.
We remained
in Suquamish for four days of protocol in the House of Awakened
Culture. This long house style building was built on the exact same
spot as their original long house. The Old Man House was destroyed
in 1870 by a U.S. Indian Agent intent on discouraging traditional
communal life . Protocol is the opportunity for each tribe that
participates in the Canoe Journey to share their culture, which
includes singing, drumming and dancing as well as to thank the
hosts.
What have I
learned from this experience? I now know that the Canoe Journey
creates community and validates culture and that a lot of healing
happens on the water. And I know that all of us are a lot stronger
than we ever imagined ourselves to be.
Episode 4 -
July 25, 2009
There have been plenty of
events and activities leading up to the final practice. The second
canoe has been given a name and I have made my own canoe paddle to
use on the canoe journey.
Many citizens of the Jamestown
S’Klallam Tribe are directly descended from the House of Ste Tee
Thlum. Ste Tee Thlum lived in the second half of the eighteenth
century and was hereditary chief of the village located where the
Dungeness River flows into the Strait of Juan de Fuca. He had a
large family of seven sons and one daughter. The seventh son was
named Laxaynәm and this is the name given to the tribe’s
first canoe. Now the second canoe has been given the name of the
only daughter, E’ow-itsa (or “Little Sister”). There will be a
formal naming ceremony for her on the 31st of July at
Jamestown. I am particularly pleased because my family is descended
from E’ow-itsa, Little Sister of the Seven Brothers.
To make the canoe paddle I
first went up to the Woodworking Shed to work with Jeff Monson.
Beginning with a large plank of yellow cedar, we used “traditional
power tools” to cut a Coast Salish shaped paddle. The blade is
leaf-shaped and pointed at the tip. The handle is carved from the
same piece of wood with an added upper hand hold. The shape was
devised in ancient times for stealth and defense. The paddle’s
pointed end may have been designed for warfare but it was also handy
to spear a fish. The tip of the blade is actually a fine-tuned
innovation. It enters the water’s surface more easily than the
blunt-tipped paddle. When silence is required, the very end of the
tip can be left in the water on the return stroke so that even the
slightest noise of drips splashing the surface is not made. After
the power tools, I began the hand-work. I sanded and sanded. When
the paddle was finished it was as smooth as silk and of course
yellow cedar is very aromatic.
Because paddles are made with
pride, my ancestors sometimes painted a decoration on the blade or
colored them solid black. I intend to do both, paint a decoration on
the blade and color the handle black.
I have been extremely
fortunate in that Dale Faulstich, the Master Carver of the Jamestown
S’Klallam totem poles, offered to create the designs for my paddle.
The blade on my paddle has a Sea Bear (part bear and part killer
whale) which I thought was an appropriate image on a sea-going
paddle. On one side of the handle are designs from 18th
century S’Klallam war clubs that symbolize strength and fierceness.
On the other side of the handle is the zig-zag or lightning pattern
which symbolizes visions and inspiration. It also refers to the
“chain lightning power” that only the Dungeness S’Klallams
possessed. This was a special war spirit power and to imitate it the
S’Klallams entered potlatch celebrations dancing single-file in the
zig-zag pattern. The dancers made four counterclockwise circuits of
the central fire singing their power songs before being seated. Of
course we will be singing our power songs on the canoe journey.
Sherry with her Sea-Bear paddle
It should be noted that native
pullers treat their paddles with care and utmost respect. It is the
paddle that allows a puller to reach her/his goals. The tip must
never touch the ground but can rest on one’s foot. The tip is sacred
as it is the point of connection between the puller and the water.
This Saturday was our final
practice. Both canoes went out and we made a grand circuit around
Sequim Bay. We received our final instructions. When the canoes from
the other Tribes reach Jamestown on Friday the 31st of
July, those of us in the Laxaynәm will go out to the tip of
the Dungeness Spit to greet them and guide them in to Jamestown.
Then Saturday morning, very early, the two Jamestown
S’Klallam canoes will join the others for the canoe journey to
Suquamish.
Episode 3 - June 27, 2009
This Saturday was “cold water training”. For the first time
EVERYONE going on the canoe journey was there. It was very clear
that no one wanted this event hanging over her/his head any longer
than necessary and going through “cold water training” is a
requirement for the journey.
Before heading out into the bay one member of the team from the
support boat went over all the effects of hypothermia… in great
detail! However the water in the bay was around 55 degrees
Fahrenheit that day so it would actually have taken over an hour in
the water before hypothermia set in. From what I had heard of the
cold water training done in previous years everyone was back in the
canoe within ten minutes. I think this was a relief for those who
admitted to being a bit scared.
My biggest concern ahead of time was what I would do with my car
keys. Having them sink to the bottom of the bay would be a real
dilemma. And apparently that is exactly what happened last year to a
fellow who left his keys in his pocket. But after consulting with
Marlin, the skipper, I learned of the various places I could leave
the keys on land before setting out in the canoe. My other concern
was what to wear. I had heard that cotton was the worst choice of
clothing because of how water adheres to it. I could clearly
envision myself sinking to the bottom of Sequim Bay in slow motion
like Holly Hunter in the film The Piano only my sinking would
not be nearly as lyrical as hers was. So I opted for my swim suit
with lightweight clothes of a different fabric over it.
The crews for each of the canoes for the journey have been assigned
and I will be on the Laxaynәm. This is the dugout canoe made
from a 500 year old red cedar tree. It is heavier than the other
canoe but I have really enjoyed the two times I have been a puller
in it. I feel like I am having the opportunity to experience one
aspect of the lifestyle of my ancestors.
Well, finally we paddled out into the bay and first practiced tying
up to the support boat and then getting out of the canoe and into
the boat. There is a cabin and a motor on the support boat – what a
difference! Then the dreaded moment arrived.
We got back in the canoes and made our way a distance from shore. We
rocked the canoe and over we went into the water. It all happened
very quickly. Then everyone started swimming toward the canoe. The
three in first baled out most of the water. Of course, what I
envisioned as being the biggest hurdle was – that of getting back
into the canoe. But when each person’s turn came there were plenty
of people to push, pull or yank and we were all back in the canoe
within the allotted ten minutes. I doubt if anyone, including
myself, wants to go through the “cold water training” again but it
did feel like a real accomplishment and we were quite merry
afterwards.
Episode 2 - May 30, 2009
The tribal
canoe was brought from the Jamestown Canoe Shed for launching at the
John Wayne Marina. It struck me as blatant irony that the man who
had donated the land for the marina which we S’Klallams are using
was the same man who spent much of his professional life shooting
and killing Indians. However he greatly liked this area and gave a
very valuable piece of property to the people who live here for the
marina.
This
Saturday there were nine of us including our drummer/singer who
turned up for canoe practice. The canoe was put in the water and
after a prayer for our safe return we boarded the canoe and headed
off into Sequim Bay. It was exhilarating. It was a beautiful warm
day with little wind and calm water. ‘A great beginning,’ I thought.
My first
realization was how incredibly important the beating of the drum and
the singing is. It synchronizes the pulling and is uplifting as
well. We were instructed to pull in coordination with the person in
front of us and so needless to say the two people in the bow of the
canoe are especially important. Half way through the practice we
switched sides of the canoe. I thought one side might be easier than
the other but what I discovered was both sides were equally
demanding.
We kept up a
good pace which included bouts of “power paddling” and went across
the bay to practice “beaching”. While on the beach we looked up and
there high in a cedar tree was a bald eagle. Many native people
believe that the eagle is the spirit of a deceased person who may
appear to protect and look out for those still on earth. I thought
that was a very comforting idea, plus it keeps alive the strong
connection you had with the person after they have died.
Well, it was
a great afternoon in the canoe and on the bay and everyone including
the skipper felt we had done exceptionally well. What I discovered
was the great pleasure of being on and near the water. The ancestors
would have been very pleased with us.
I will
conclude with the information that after almost three hours pulling
in the canoe I expected discomfort, sore muscles and perhaps
outright pain the next day. However I had nary an ache or pain for
my efforts. I take that as a sign I should continue with this
venture.
Photo by J. King
Episode 1 - May 16, 2009
I traveled from
my home in California to spend the summer with my sister in Sequim
so that I could go to the Jamestown canoe practices and then on the
canoe journey this summer to Suquamish. On Saturday morning I drove
from the town of Sequim along a highway cut through a thickly wooded
forest to the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribal Center in Blyn for the
first meeting of the Jamestown Canoe Family. Initially we met at the
Canoe Shed where the two tribal canoes are housed. One canoe is made
from a 500 year old cedar tree and the other canoe is made from
lightweight cedar strips and fiberglass. The first is much heavier
weighing 1500 pounds and is very sturdy. The second is lighter
weight, about 600 pounds, and is wider and more buoyant. The
original canoe is called the Laxaynәm (pronounced La-cane-um)
and the second is yet to be named. As the first canoe has a male
name the second canoe will have a female name, yet to be decided.
There were
about 14 people at the meeting although 23 have signed up. The
journey is open to anyone who of course must come to the training
sessions. Next week we begin the canoe training in the bay. The most
challenging session will be what is called the “cold water
training.” I think everyone can guess what that means. It occurs
later in the summer so as not to terrify the participants I suspect.
My impression is that the canoe journey will function in many ways:
it tests one’s physical and mental strength, it connects one to the
ancestors (who are always watching), it creates a sense of family,
it reactivates old traditions while creating new ones, it will
change one, plus much more.
The meeting
included information, ritual, eating, singing and drumming. First
the rules were laid out and then a smudging ceremony took place.
Smoking cedar from last year’s wreath from the nose of the Laxaynəm
with sage and an eagle feather were used to waft smoke over one’s
head, around one’s heart and then the rest of the body. This is for
purification. It was a beautiful sunny day so after lunch we went
down by the bay to begin learning S’Klallam songs. They have two
parts: messages and chants. An example would be The Klallam
Welcome Song:
Man k*u ?ay’
?a? či nstáči
(It’s a very good day today!)
šá?šut ?a? či
nstáči
(I’m glad that you arrived!)
Hi hi hay -----
ya ho ho whoa ----- hi hi hay, whoa ho ho
The Olympic
Peninsula is a magnificent spot on our continent. From the Sequim
prairie one can seen the snow covered Olympic Mountains emerging
behind the dark green evergreen forests. In the opposite direction
is the coastline with sandy beaches filled with driftwood and
treasures left by the sea. Gulls cry, the waves lap on the shore,
the wind whispers in the trees and for a single second all seems
right in the world.
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